The relationship between drag culture and mainstream pop culture has always been symbiotic. As drag strives to recreate the beauty standards of women it has in hand influenced the female image we know today.
One of the first definitions of ‘Drag’ can be found in 1927’s A.J. Rosanoff’s Manual of Psychiatry where he wrote ‘an outfit of female dress worn by homosexual or a social gathering in which homosexuals are in female dress’. Others think the term was first used part of the Polari language earlier in the 1900s created due to the criminalisation of homosexuality.
No matter what the origins of the movement are it can be agreed drag culture now firmly holds a place within pop culture.
In the 1970s, what is now seen as the mainstream audience’s first experience with drag, John Water’s Pink Flamingos starring Divine was released. In 2019 we are surrounded by the artform with RuPaul’s Drag Race winning an Emmy last year and Queer Eye being renewed for a second series on Neftlix.
This immersion with the culture is what Leoandros Farley-Stamadiades, also known as Aphrodite Papadopoulopoulos when performing, feels is the reason behind the new trends developing in ‘conventional’ makeup. “I have never seen any girls my age doing things like cut creases and contour, before the advent of Drag Race,” reveals Leonandros.
“It has trickled down into mainstream culture from drag, because makeup influencers were enjoying the drag scene and adopted aspects.”
Cut creases and contour have undeniably become the biggest trends of the decade – With the word ‘contour’ returning over 55 million results on YouTube. While the Kardashian’s are often given credit, in reality the method was developed by drag queens to create the illusion of a female bone structure through applying dark and light shadows to different sections of the face.
Leo explains that creating an illusion is an important part of his makeup, he describes how he “literally reshapes [his] face” to create an “exaggerated image of timeless beauty.”
He also added that for many drag performers makeup is about creating a “caricature of the female form; intended to poke fun at beauty ideals” being used to create distorted shapes within the face and show extreme colour to mock the rigidness of conventionality. But now, this makeup style can be seen in just that – conventionality.
Whilst for some the interaction with drag in pop culture can influence their morning routine – for others it can lead to a whole change in their life. This is how drag perfomer, Luna Lakes, first experienced drag at 17. After ‘researching into the queer arts’ and watching the documentary ‘Paris is Burning’ about the underground drag scene in NYC during the 80s the drag community became a fascination. Since then Luna has been performing for 3 years and describes how she has finally “found her place.”
For her when Luna first started makeup she felt “she had to look like a drag queen” by “wearing a lot of makeup featuring harsh contours, bright highlights and big lashes.” However, she says this stereotype didn’t “resonate with my drag persona.” and instead began to wear less makeup to match her character which she describes as a “dragcentric version of the high school mean girl.” Eventually, she began to borrow makeup techniques, such as ‘refined brows and light contouring and highlighting’, from the millennials she mimicked in her performances.
Luna’s makeup journey compared to Aphrodite’s highlights how the relationship between drag and mainstream will always be symbiotic as they learn from and influence each other.
The mainstreaming of drag culture has helped to breakdown the rigidness around the makeup community and open the doors to those who before felt uninvited. Joe Conza, with nearly 200,000 YouTube subscribers and over 20,000 Instagram followers, has worn makeup since he was 14.
He says when he first started wearing makeup he felt “uncomfortable and awkward” when buying it. He explains “being a guy I didn’t really feel included in the makeup industry.” But now, 4 years on after learning through watching Youtubers such as Jeffree Star and Michelle Phan he feels confident wearing it and promotes this mindset to his own viewers.
He describes makeup as gender fluid and says “anyone should be able to wear makeup and feel confident.” he continues “there shouldn’t be a stigma around guys not meant to wear makeup because it’s a genderless art form.’”
It is clear to see how Drag performers have helped to break that stigma and brought acceptance to mainstream audiences with YouTubers such as Patrick Starr who has over 4 million subscribers and PaintedByFame who receives over a million views per video.
As the drag community continues to grow become more prevalent in pop culture it is no doubt we will continue to be shaped by the techniques and trends they share with us. It is important, now more than ever, to recognise and respect their origins.